Last modified: September 18, 1995 ------------------------------ Subject: 1 Introduction Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists might find useful. Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles, and and some are condensed from postings. Answers include the name and email address of the author. If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party. If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email address, let me know and I'll fix it. ****NOTE****: I am not the moderator or "person in charge" of the rec.bicycles newsgroups. I also have no way to help you with problems reading the newsgroups unless you are at UCI; you'll need to talk to your system or news admin for help. If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write it up and send it to me at the address below. Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen. If you want something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary. This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc, news.answers, and rec.answers around the 15th of the month. It is also available via anonymous ftp from: Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via email. Mike Iglesias iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu ------------------------------ Subject: 2 Index (! means updated since last FAQ. + means new section.) 1 Introduction 2 Index 3 Administrivia 3.1 Abbreviations 3.2 Gopher and World Wide Web access 3.3 Archives 3.4 Posting Guidelines 3.5 Electronic Mailing lists 4 Rides 4.1 Maps 4.2 Touring supplies 4.3 Taking a bike on Amtrak 4.4 Warm Showers List 5 Racing 5.1 Tour de France Jerseys ! 5.2 Major Tour Winners 1947-1990 5.3 Rating the Tour de France Climbs 6 Social 6.1 Bicycling in America 6.2 League of American Bicyclists 6.3 Rules for trail riding 6.4 Commuting - Is it possible for me to commute by bike? 6.5 Commuting - How do I choose a route? 6.6 Commuting - Do I really need to look that goofy? 6.7 Commuting - Do cyclists breathe more pollution than motorists? 7 Marketplace 7.1 Marketplace hints/guidelines 7.2 Bike Trailers 7.3 One Less Car T-Shirts 7.4 Panniers and Racks 7.5 Clothing materials 7.6 Seats 7.7 Women's Saddles 7.8 Women's Bikes 7.9 Bike Rentals 7.10 Bike Lockers 7.11 Bike computer features 7.12 Recumbent Bike Info 7.13 Buying a Bike 7.14 Kids Bike Clothes 8 Tech 8.1 Technical Support Numbers 8.2 Ball Bearing Grades 8.3 SIS Cable Info 8.4 Milk Jug Mud Flaps 8.5 Lubricating Chains 8.6 Wear and Gear Slippage 8.7 Adjusting Chain Length 8.8 Hyperglide chains 8.9 Bottom Bracket Info 8.10 Crank noises 8.11 Cracking/Breaking Cranks 8.12 Biopace chainrings 8.13 Snakebite flats 8.14 Blown Tubes 8.15 Mounting Tires 8.16 More Flats on Rear Tires 8.17 What holds the rim off the ground? 8.18 Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims 8.19 Reusing Spokes 8.20 Clinchers vs. Tubulars 8.21 Presta Valve Nuts 8.22 Ideal Tire Sizes ! 8.23 Indexed Steering 8.24 Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot Brakes 8.25 Seat adjustments 8.26 Cleat adjustments 8.27 SIS Adjustment Procedure 8.28 Where to buy tools 8.29 Workstands 8.30 Workstands 2 8.31 Frame Stiffness 8.32 Frame materials 8.33 Bike pulls to one side 8.34 Frame repair 8.35 Frame Fatigue 8.36 Weight = Speed? 8.37 Adjusting SPD Cleats 8.38 Rim Tape Summary 8.39 STI/Ergo Summary 8.40 Roller Head Bearings 8.41 Tubular Tire Repair 8.42 Cassette or Freewheel Hubs 8.43 Cassette or Freewheel Hubs take 2 8.44 "Sealed" Bearings 8.45 Installing Cranks 8.46 Stress Relieving Spokes 8.47 Traffic detector loops 8.48 Gluing Sew-up Tires 8.49 Common Torque Values 8.50 Measuring the circumference of wheels 8.51 Tubular Fables 8.52 Folding a Tubular Tire 8.53 Frames "going soft" 8.54 Inspecting your bike for potential failures 9 Misc 9.1 Books and Magazines 9.2 Mail Order Addresses 9.3 Road Gradient Units 9.4 Helmets 9.5 Terminology 9.6 Avoiding Dogs 9.7 Shaving Your Legs 9.8 Contact Lenses and Cycling 9.9 How to deal with your clothes 9.10 Pete's Winter Cycling Tips 9.11 Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips 9.12 Studded Tires 9.13 Cycling Myths 9.14 Descending I 9.15 Descending II 9.16 Trackstands 9.17 Front Brake Usage 9.18 Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy 9.19 Reflective Tape 9.20 Nutrition 9.21 Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe 9.22 Powerbars Recipe 9.23 Calories burned by cycling 9.24 Road Rash Cures 9.25 Knee problems 9.26 Cycling Psychology 9.27 Mirrors 9.28 Another Powerbar recipe 9.29 Lower back pain 9.30 Saddle sores 10 Off-Road 10.1 Suspension Stems ------------------------------ Subject: 3 Administrivia ------------------------------ Subject: 3.1 Abbreviations Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*: FAQ Frequenly Asked Question. What you are reading now is a file containing answers to some FAQs. IMHO In my humble opinion. TIOOYK There Is Only One You Know. Refers to the Tour de France. See the glossary in the ftp archives for more bicycle-related terms. ------------------------------ Subject: 3.2 Gopher and World Wide Web access I've made the rec.bicycles ftp archives available via gopher and the Web, and have split the FAQ up into individual files for easier access via gopher. The FAQ is available from Ohio State as listed below via the Web. To connect to the gopher server, use the hostname draco.acs.uci.edu and port 1071. Please don't ask me how to use gopher or how to configure your gopher client; I don't know how to use all the available gopher clients, nor do I have access to them. Please talk to your local gopher gurus. You can also access the FAQ and archives via the Web using these URLs: Thanks to the folks at Ohio State for their USENET FAQ Web service! Again, please ask your local gurus for information on how to use Web clients. ------------------------------ Subject: 3.3 Archives I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12). This is the workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time. The files are in pub/rec.bicycles. For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of items in the archives. I really don't have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily. To use the ftpmail server, send an email message containing the line help in the body of the message to ftpmail@gatekeeper.dec.com. You'll get a help file back with more information on how to use the ftpmail server. Here is an example of what to put in the body of a message to to get the README file: connect draco.acs.uci.edu chdir pub/rec.bicycles get README README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area arnie.light Arnie Berger's (arnie.berger@amd.com) "Ultimate bike light" bike_gear.sea.hqx Lawrence Hare's (ldh@duck.svl.cdc.com) copy of a Hypercard stack to calculate gearing. Lawrence says there is a newer version on major bbs systems. bike.lockers David H. Wolfskill's (david@dhw68k.cts.com) summary of bike locker vendors. bike.painting Sam Henry's (shenry@rice.edu) collection of articles on how to paint a bike. bike_power.* Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power consumption. See bike_power.doc for more info. updated by Mark Grennan (markg@okcforum.oknorm.edu) biking_log.* Phil Etheridge's (phil@massey.ac.nz) hypercard stack riding diary. It keeps track of dates, distance, time, average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly, and yearly totals. See biking_log.read_me for more information. CA-veh-code A directory containing the California vehicle code sections that pertain to bicycles and gopher bookmarks. See the README in that directory for more information. camera.tour Vivian Aldridge's (viviana@tamri.com) collection of articles on cameras to take on a bike tour. competitive.nutrition Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) article from the Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling. computer.calibrate computer.install Sheldon Brown's (CaptBike@aol.com) universal bike computer calibration chart and installation suggestions. cyclesense Larry Watanabe's (watanabe@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) copy of the "Cycle Sense for Motorists" ready to run thru LaTeX. faq.* The current Frequently Asked Questions posting first.century Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) tips on training for your first century ride. frame.build Terry Zmrhal's (terryz@microsoft.com) writeup of a frame building class he took. gear.c Larry Watanabe's (watanabe@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) program to print gear inch tables. glossary Alan Bloom's (alanb@sr.hp.com) glossary of bicycle terms. lab.info Erin O'Brien's (bikeleague@aol.com) article on the League of American Bicyclists. lights Tom Reingold's (tr@samadams.princeton.edu) collection of articles on bike lights. lights2 More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights. mtb.buy Joakim Karlsson's (aviator@mv.mv.com) article on buying an entry-level MTB. pam.bmb* Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) report on her Boston-Montreal-Boston rides. pam.pactour* Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) writeup of her PAC tours across the country. pbp.info Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) information on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride. pictures Bicycling gif pictures. prof.sched Roland Stahl's (stahl@ipi.uni-hannover.de) list of scheduled professional races in many countries. pwm.regulator Willie Hunt's (willie@cs.indiana.edu) design notes on a pulse width modulated voltage regulator. Originally designed for caving, this design is adaptable to bike lighting. The author has parts available in kit form. ride.index Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's (bushnell@lmsc.lockheed.com) explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the difficulty of different rides. ridelg22.* Found on AOL by Gary Thurman (thurmag@csos.orst.edu), a ride diary program. The .exe file a self-extracting archive for PCs. spike.bike Bob Fishell's (spike@cbnewsd.att.com) Spike Bike series. They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to rec.bicycles. All the Spike Bike stories are "Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved." spokelen11.bas Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) spoke length calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic. spokelen.c Andy Tucker's (tucker@Neon.Stanford.EDU) port of Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C. spokelen.hqx Eric Topp's topp@roses.stanford.edu's Hypercard stack that computes spoke lengths. studded.tires (Name removed by request) compilation of messages on studded tires, including how to make your own. tandem.boxes Arnie Berger's (arnie@col.hp.com) notes on how he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and back. It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if you want more information, contact him at the above address. tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's (josh@Happy-Man.com) list of technical support numbers for various manufacturers. This list used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there. trailers A summary posting of messages about bike trailers. Good stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer. wheels.*.hqx R. Scott Truesdell's (truesdel@ics.uci.edu) Hypercard stack to calculate spoke lengths. See wheels.readme for more info. wintertips Pete Hickey's (pete@panda1.uottawa.ca) notes about how to cycle in the winter. wintertips.pam Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) winter cycling tips. Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97) in the directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern Dahl-Stamnes (dahls@fysel.unit.no). Last updated: July 3rd, 1994. File What READ.ME Information about the other files in the directory. bm106a.zip The latest version of Bike Manager. Bike Manager is a shareware program that help you keep a log of your training activities. It can report summary reports, weekly reports, monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your activities against your goals. And more... brake.doc About how to make your own brake booster. gtos91.doc A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991. gtos92.doc Same, but for the 1992 trial. gtos93.doc For the 1993 trial. toj93.doc The Tour of Jotunheimen 1993 report. faq.* Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information (ASCII text format). velo.txt Description about Velocipede (TM) for Windows. velo*.zip Velocipede (TM) for Windows. Velocipede is a window based training log program based on the ideas in Bike Manager. Compared to Bike Manager, Velocipede offers a better user interface, graphic presentation and more. For more details, see file velo.txt. Velocipede is a shareware program. ------------------------------ Subject: 3.4 Posting Guidelines The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your article to the appropriate group. The newsgroups were designed to minimize cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate newsgroup and post your article there. Most postings to rec.bicycles should not be cross-posted to groups outside of rec.*. rec.bicycles: DO NOT USE THIS NEWSGROUP - it should have been dropped from news servers, having been replaced by rec.bicycles.misc. rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy them, and evaluations of these sources. Not for discussion of general engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech. rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment. Not for products or services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace. rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes. Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc. rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws, conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and sociopaths. rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and organizations. Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace or rec.bicycles.tech. rec.bicycles.misc: General riding techniques, rider physiology, injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics. rec.bicycles.off-road: Discussion of riding on unimproved roads, gravel, dirt, grass, sand, single track or 4x4 roads. Also discussion of environmental issues, trail issues, backcountry travel, how to handle conditions (technically and evo-sensitively), off-road magazines and other media. ------------------------------ Subject: 3.5 Electronic Mailing lists tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts. Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection, prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc. For more information send mail to "listserv@hobbes.ucsd.edu" with the body of the message having the line "info tandem", or point your WWW client at , or finger tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu. BOB is the Bridgestone Owner's Bunch, and this is the internet edition of it. This is a mailing list, not a newsletter, and has no connection with the real Bridgestone-sponsored BOB except in name and in spirit. Get more information by sending mail to bob-request@cs.washington.edu. HPV list The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles and closely related kin. (Hybrid human/electric, for example.) For further information, send a mail message containing the following single line in the message, to listserv@sonoma.edu: info hpv BICYCLE on LISTPROC@LISTPROC.NET The BICYCLE list was formed to provide a forum for cyclists to discuss all topics related to bicycles, mtn. biking, and cycling in general. This is NOT the place to discuss issues related to motorcycling. To subscribe to BICYCLE send the following command to LISTPROC@LISTPROC.NET in the BODY of e-mail: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE real name For example: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE John Doe Owner: Chris Tanski ctanski@quest.arc.nasa.gov BikeMidwest A new regional internet discussion group has been started to discuss bicycle advocacy issues in the midwest area. BikeMidwest was started to connect cyclists in L.A.W. Regions 6, 7, 8 and 9. That is, the states of Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa and Missouri. Of course, people from outside this area are welcome to join. Subscriptions to the list are handled by a computer program called Majordomo. To subscribe, send a message with the following command in the body of the message to Majordomo@fuji.physics.indiana.edu: subscribe BikeMidwest Bicycle BBS BicycleBBS offers free access to cyclists. The # is 619-720-1830. The BBS is run by Neil Goren, Neil@BicycleBBS.Org. BicycleBBS also has a mailing list. Anyone can join by sending e-mail to: ARMBRC-request@BicycleBBS.Org and put "JOIN" in the text body anywhere. ------------------------------ Subject: 4 Rides ------------------------------ Subject: 4.1 Maps From: Jim Carson Updated-From: Joel Spolsky Adventure Cycling Association maps are not free, but you can get them without joining. To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call +1 (406) 721-1776 (24 hr). Maps are currently (Feb 1995) $8.95 each to "non-members," $5.95 each to "members." There are also small discounts for sets of maps and members in the continental US don't have to pay for surface shipping and handling. Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km. Certain areas are more detailed when necessary. I like the maps because they have lots of interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar bag map case. As of Feb '95, there are three transcontinental (W-E) routes an east coast (N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and a middle route and numerous routes among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada. Membership is $25 individual; $35 family; $19 for students/seniors. Lifetime is $475; $650 for couples. Members get copies of Adventure Cycling Association's magazine, Adventure Cyclist, published 9 times annually, a list of tours run by Adventure Cycling Association, and the annual _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_. _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of interesting information on touring and points of contact for more information about cycling and touring all over the world. (For example, they have an arrangement with The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism whereby you can purchase full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language maps.) Adventure Cycling Association's address and phone: Adventure Cycling Association (406) 721-1776, fax (406) 721-8754 PO Box 8308 Missoula, MT 59807-8308 ------------------------------ Subject: 4.2 Touring supplies From: Scott "gaspo" Gasparian Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week). I received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that spare spoke that is). Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that next medium trip... FOOD: Here, just whatever you normally consume. If you plan on staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough. Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick. Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real "camp-out" type tour. This subject is enough for a discussion in itself, but I just eat what I want. CLOTHING: Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi- tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts. However, everybody agreed on the indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear. Specifically, light waterproof pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high warmth/weight ratio. A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also highly recomended. A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is talking to me doesn't care what I wear. If it might be non-warm, a watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help. FIRST-AID: Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen and bug-away topped the lists. Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like... TOILETRIES: I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant. That covers all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna touch the "personal hygeine" stuff. A razor is handy too, it can help keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out. MISC: I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category. Robyn Stewart gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps. A piece of rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of an old shower-curtain. Again, there is a whole area of discussion here on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works. TOOLS: Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other stuff like a chain remover tool is in the "how far will I be from civilization" range. This was what I really wanted to know about when I posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups. Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo. If replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to bring. Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools that tune more than repair are also an individual call. I always carry a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger one that actually removes the entire caliper. pump pressure gauge flat kit wrenches (sizes and type for your velo) hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo) chain tool chain links tire levers (plastic) spoke wrench safety wire duct tape zip ties SPARES: Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories. For example, that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks is essential, but could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a velo-shop/store that might have a replacement. Then again, one little nut is easy on space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if your velos measurements are non-standard. If you have a hard-time finding a replacement for that random part at your local store, bring one with you. inner tubes tire-boots brake shoes light bulbs spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame) nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc. tire (if you're _really_ out there) toe-clip strap shoe-laces cable (especially if yours are longer than normal). cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones) NIFTY IDEAS: Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both humorous and usefull.... mjohnsto@shearson.com (Mike Johnston) A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands during rear wheel flats) s_kbca@dante.lbl.gov (Steve Kromer) The most important article to take along on a long ride seems to be faith. chris@wg.estec.esa.nl (chris rouch) 15cm of old tyre Robyn Stewart Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong. sarahm@Cadence.COM bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that set of six beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the back of your bike. cathyf@is.rice.edu (Catherine Anne Foulston) ZAP Sport Towel. I think it is really useful because you can get it wet and it still dries you. ------------------------------ Subject: 4.3 Taking a bike on Amtrak From: Carlos Martin The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike as luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992. It is intended to offer advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not intended to reflect the views or policies of Amtrak. For reference, I traveled from Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour. Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few precautions. Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage. (Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.) There is a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box. Call the station several days before your trip and notify them that you will need a bicycle box. The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise. You will, however, have to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars to fit the bike in the box. Plan on putting only the bike in the box - no helmet or panniers. (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point - they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff in the box.) Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem enough to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station. Plan to arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure time - Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before departure (they may tell you one hour). Don't forget to keep your tools handy. At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape from the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and the bolt that holds the handlebars in the stem. Hold the front wheel between your feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the top tube. Roll the bike into the box and seal the ends. If everything goes smoothly, you can do the above packing in ten minutes. Now go have lunch before you get on the train unless you want to take your chances with train food. BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if you are accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches. I would travel by Amtrak again in a similar situation. (The usual disclaimer applies: I have no connection to Amtrak, other than being a taxpaying subsidizer and occasional user of the rail system.) ------------------------------ Subject: 4.4 Warm Showers List From: Terry Zmrhal The Warm Showers List is a list of Internet Cyclists who have offered their hospitality towards touring cyclists. The extent of the hospitality depends on the host and may range from simply a spot to pitch a tent to meals, a warm (hot!) shower, and a bed. If you wish to obtain the list, please email me at terryz@microsoft.com. The actual Warm Showers list is not posted since it contains personal information (addresses, phone numbers, etc.). If you wish to be included on the Internet Warm Showers list, please answer the questions below my signature in return mail to me. I have also included in parenthesis a reason or two for the inclusion of each item based on my experiences two summers ago. Once I have received your information, I will add it to the list and then you will receive the complete list also. Thanks to All Terry Zmrhal terryz@microsoft.com 'The Horizon is but a line to be crossed, not a limit to be reached.' ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Name: (Who are you?) Email Address: (For pre-trip communication.) Non-Email Contact (Address, Phone, and/or Work Phone): (For communication once someone is traveling.) Nearest largest city (>50,000 people) (and state): (It's much easier to find a large city on a map than a small one, and some small ones aren=92t even on some maps!) Direction and Distance from above city: (Some cities are very large and getting through or around a city can be very difficult.) Will provide- Lawnspace (for tent or sleeping bag)? Floorspace (for sleeping bag)? Bed (Wow!)? (Cyclists' gotta sleep.) Food? (or distance to nearest grocery store or restaurant - if known) (Cyclists' gotta eat. You can provide as much, or as little, as you want.) Shower? (or distance to nearest motel - if known) (It can be a real boost to know shower is waiting at the end of the day?) Availability: (If only available some months, please indicate this, otherwise 'year- round'.) Cost to Cyclist, if any: (Do you wish any money for your hospitality? How much? (please, no more than $5-$10)) Preferred Notice: (Do you require advance notice? If so, how many days (weeks) notice?) Maximum Number of Cyclists: (You don't want a major tour coming through :-) Storage: (Is there a safe place to store bikes? If so, Storage for how many bikes?) Nearest Motel: (Distance, Cost - if known) (In case a host isn't home, for an emergency, etc.) Nearest Bike Shop: (Name, Phone, Distance, Reputation - if known) (In case bike repairs are needed - good to know where good shops are.) Any additional comments you would like each interested person to know before contacting you? ------------------------------ Subject: 5 Racing ------------------------------ Subject: 5.1 Tour de France Jerseys From: Chris Murphy Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling" explain: YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto (Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing. POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933. GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953. YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the the team's top 3 riders. In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears the category jersey. ------------------------------ Subject: 5.2 Major Tour Winners 1947-1990 From: Tim Smith [Ed note: I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted. I need some help filling in the last few years.] Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947: Tour de France Giro d'Italia Vuelta d'Espana ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1947 Jean Robic (F) Fausto Coppi (I) E. van Dyck (B) 1948 Gino Bartali (I) F. Magni (I) B. Ruiz (E) 1949 Fausto Coppi (I) F. Coppi (not held) 1950 Ferdi Kubler (CH) Hugo Koblet (CH) E. Rodriguez (E) 1951 Hugo Koblet (CH) F. Magni (nh) 1952 Fausto Coppi F. Coppi (nh) 1953 Louison Bobet (F) F. Coppi (nh) 1954 Louison Bobet C. Clerici (CH) (nh) 1955 Louison Bobet F. Magni J. Dotto (F) 1956 Roger Walkowiak (F) Charly Gaul (L) A. Conterno (I) 1957 Jacques Anquetil (F) Gastone Nencini (I) J. Lorono (E) 1958 Charly Gaul (L) E. Baldini (I) Jean Stablinski (F) 1959 Federico Bahamontes (E) Charly Gaul A. Suarez (E) 1960 Gastone Nencini (I) Jacques Anquetil (F) F. de Mulder (B) 1961 Jacques Anquetil A. Pambianco (I) A. Soler (E) 1962 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion (I) Rudy Altig (D) 1963 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion J. Anquetil (F) 1964 Jacques Anquetil Jacques Anquetil Raymond Poulidor (F) 1965 Felice Gimondi (I) V. Adorni (I) R. Wolfshohl (D) 1966 Lucien Aimar (F) Gianni Motta (I) F. Gabica (E) 1967 Roger Pingeon (F) Felice Gimondi (I) J. Janssen (NDL) 1968 Jan Janssen (NDL) Eddy Merckx (B) Felice Gimondi (I) 1969 Eddy Merckx (B) Felice Gimondi Roger Pingeon (F) 1970 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx Luis Ocana (E) 1971 Eddy Merckx Gosta Petersson (S) F. Bracke (B) 1972 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx J-M Fuente (E) 1973 Luis Ocana (E) Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx (B) 1974 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx J-M Fuente 1975 Bernard Thevenet (F) F. Bertoglio (I) Tamames (E) 1976 Lucien van Impe (B) Felice Gimondi J. Pesarrodona (E) 1977 Bernard Thevenet Michel Pollentier (B) Freddy Maertens (B) 1978 Bernard Hinault (F) J. de Muynck (B) Bernard Hinault (F) 1979 Bernard Hinault Giuseppe Saronni (I) Joop Zoetemelk (NDL) 1980 Joop Zoetemelk (NDL) Bernard Hinault (F) F. Ruperez (E) 1981 Bernard Hinault Giovanni Battaglin (I) Giovanni Battaglin (I) 1982 Bernard Hinault Bernard Hinault Marino Lejarreta (E) 1983 Laurent Fignon (F) Giuseppe Saronni (I) Bernard Hinault (F) 1984 Laurent Fignon Francesco Moser (I) Eric Caritoux (F) 1985 Bernard Hinault Bernard Hinault Pedro Delgado (E) 1986 Greg Lemond (USA) Roberto Visentini (I) Alvaro Pino (E) 1987 Stephen Roche (EIR) Stephen Roche (EIR) Luis Herrera (Col.) 1988 Pedro Delgado (E) Andy Hampsten (USA) Sean Kelly (EIR) 1989 Greg Lemond (USA) Laurent Fignon (F) Pedro Delgado (E) 1990 Greg Lemond (USA) Guanni Bugno (I) Marco Giovanetti (I) 1991 Miguel Indurain (E) Franco Chioccioli (I) Melchior Mauri (E) 1992 Miguel Indurain (E) Miguel Indurain (E) Toni Rominger (CH) 1993 Miguel Indurain (E) Miguel Indurain (E) Toni Rominger (CH) 1994 Miguel Indurain (E) Eugeni Berzin (RUS) Toni Rominger(CH) 1995 Miguel Indurain (E) Toni Rominger (CH) The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946. The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945. Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany. 1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and 1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks. One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.) There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949. In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950. ------------------------------ Subject: 5.3 Rating the Tour de France Climbs From: Bruce Hildenbrand One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK). The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage. It is important to note several things before this discussion begins. First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their classifications of climbs. The north side of the Col de la Madeleine has flip-flopped between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb, even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every year. Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised its ugly head here. Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now Category 1, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same position in a stage year after year. Let's talk about the ratings. I will give you my impressions on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on having ridden over 75 of the rated climbs in the major European tours. Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades. It has been my observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get rated. Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated. Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m). Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m). Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m) Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m) Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+) Steepness also plays a factor in the rating. Most of the big climbs in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average 8-9%. Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and that there are exceptions to every rule. For example, L'Alpe D'Huez climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb. This is because it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards. More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains. I have seen it rated anywhere from a Category 3 to a Category 1!!! This is most likely due again, to its placement on the stage. The Category 3 rating came when it was near the beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was near the end. Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating. Such sections offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty of the climb considerably. This may be one of the reasons that the aforementioned Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/ flat section at mid-height, flip-flops in its rating. I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in Europe. Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by European standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2, or the climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%) so again they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up most likely a Category 2 or 3. Fear not, there are exceptions. Most notable to Californains is the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs 4200' in 11 miles, a true category 1 ascent. A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of two offending downhill section on the ascent. For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long, but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial length(5+ miles). I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23 on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude. Gear ratios of 39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs. One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft. climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass. Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads. Dirt roads vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there really are no guidelines for their construction. This makes it difficult to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads. One last note. I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals. I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now. It is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how fast the pros climb the big passes. Pace makes all the difference. Riding a climb is very different than racing it. Bruce ------------------------------ Subject: 6 Social ------------------------------ Subject: 6.1 Bicycling in America From: Jobst Brandt (or How to survive on a bicycle) In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for adults. It is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who are not old enough to drive cars). Adults who sense that they are violating this stricture, excuse their bicycling by representing it as the pursuit of physical fitness. They refer to their bicycling as training rides. Rarely do you hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling" but rather "we were on a training ride". Certainly most of these people never race although one might assume, by implication, that their other rides are races. Some also refer to themselves as serious cyclists, a term used to describe those who, typically, keep track of pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics, thereby giving proof that they are not engaged in child's play. In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper activity for all ages. That is to say, motorists do not treat bicyclists with apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to justify their pursuit as anything other than bicycling, for whatever reason. In Europe cadence on speedometers is an un-marketable function for unexplained reasons, however, one could imagine that for the average cyclist it is a useless statistic, except for those on "training rides". With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads in the presence of automobile traffic. "Get the f#%k off the road!" and similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are equipped with bike racks. It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing public outrage they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior. The same is true of bicyclists who deride others in public for not wearing a helmet. Aggressive self righteousness is probably a fitting description. Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction with ones life. Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least more fun than the subject, needs to be brought down a notch. Psychologists who have interviewed youths that go "wilding" have gotten responses to the effect that "my life is terrible and I can't stand people who are having fun". So these youths attack others and beat them bloody. In a manner that may not make sense to others, they bring their victims down a notch to achieve parity. There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards. You can fall by running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or falling on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover. There are enough hazards without the threat of being run down by a car. However, the whole sport loses its appeal when motorists, who believe that adult bicycling is offensive, actively engage in making it a deadly endeavor. The scenario: In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that guy on the bicycle? That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing within inches of the cyclist. The passenger is truly impressed with the danger of bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver. I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I know what is going on. Examples: o The buzz and swerve routine: A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing traffic. Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how far he went out of his way for the cyclist. The desired path was even nearer the road shoulder than at the passing point. The buzz and swerve is executed equally well consciously and subconsciously. o Center court, extra point: The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly centered between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires passing within inches of a cyclist. It appears that the driver is awarding himself points for not flinching when passing cyclists and extra points for proximity. In the event of a collision it is, of course, the cyclist who swerved unexpectedly. The precision with which the driver executes this maneuver, in spite of the danger, makes the center court game conspicuous. People generally don't drive exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is an obstacle. o Honk and slice: The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking a single one second blast. This is usually done at a far greater distance than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best. This is a great crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with the cyclist. "But I warned him!" o The trajectory intercept: A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right angles. The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection but at different speeds. With skill, the driver of the car can slow down at a rate that lets him arrive at the intersection at precisely the same time as the cyclist. The bicyclist who has a stop sign may now come to a complete stop and wait for the driver who is only looking out for the cyclist's safety. If the cyclist doesn't stop, the driver honks and yells something about breaking the law. Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist, in spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes. o The contrived hindrance: A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the passenger asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or until the following cars begin to honk. Then, regardless of visibility or oncoming traffic, an inopportune pass is executed after which each of following drivers makes it clear when passing that it was the cyclist who was responsible for the near collision. o The rear-ender: While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car that notices his rapid approach. If an oncoming car approaches the driver slows down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams on the brakes when there is no place for the cyclist to go. Bicycles cannot stop as fast as cars since cars can safely skid the front wheels but bicycles can't. This game is the more dangerous variation of speeding up every time the cyclist tries to pass but to drive as slowly as possible everywhere else. One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that riding in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was scary. This cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a thing or two. Thus the driver proves to himself that not riding in the hills was for safety's sake, it had nothing to do with physical ability. It fits into the " I'll teach that smartass a lesson. There is little risk for the car because in a rear-end collision the vehicle behind is, with few exceptions, found at fault. So why does all this go on and on? It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just frustrated drivers. They may still be getting even for some bicycle accident they had in their youth and don't want others to get off any easier. Some are angry at having to spend the time behind the wheel while other "irresponsible adults" are playing on their bicycles. I believe the meanest ones are insecure people who don't feel as though they are accomplishing what they expect of themselves and don't like to see others have it any better. Many drivers believe that the only part of the road to which a bicyclist is entitled is the road shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that part too. A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro bicycle attitude. Some people use bike racks to transport family bicycles to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing onto dangerous roads; roads that are meant for cars. Among these people are some of the strongest opponents of general bicycling. They take refuge in the belief that, if they should run you down while playing center court, it would prove that you should bicycle as they do, and not get in the way of cars. What to do? Don't fuel the flames. Don't return the rudeness that is dished out. Take legal action where appropriate (and possible). Don't posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined superiority to people who sit in cars. Don't balance on your bike or ride in circles in front of cars waiting at a red light. Don't make moves in traffic that are either discourteous, or at best, awkward but legal. If you hear loud knobby tires coming, believe it! That guy in the extra tall pickup truck with the all terrain tires, dual roll bars and multiple searchlights is not a friend of yours coming close to say hello. Give him room. ------------------------------ Subject: 6.2 League of American Bicyclists From: Erin O'Brien The League of American Bicyclists, (founded as the League of American Wheelmen) has been working to improve the quality of bicycling in America almost as long as there have been bicycles. In the 1870s the forefathers of bicycling banded together to lobby the government for more paved roads and to put a stop to antagonistic acts from other road-users. United in 1880 as the League of American Bicyclists, their mission has carried on throughout the history of bicycling. Fashioned after "The Good Roads Movement" of the 1880's, our current agenda is embodied by the L.A.W. Safe Roads Movement, a comprehensive program that aims to reduce the number of injuries and deaths to cyclists. Highlights of this 10-pointaction plan include educating bicyclists and other road users about thei rights and responsibilities to safely share the road, and promoting the improvement of road design and maintenance to better accommodate bicycles. The League's Effective Cycling program is making great strides to advance this agenda. Taught by certified instructors, it is the only national bicycling education program that combines the technical training needed to safely negotiate any traffic situation, with the principles of safe, responsible riding. L.A.W. sponsors National Bike Month (May), which serves to promote the various aspects of bicycling. In 1992, L.A.W. founded The International Police Mountain Bike Association (IPMBA) to address the growing need for information, assistance, and training to start-up bicycle-mounted police patrols. L.A.W. played an instrumental role in the passage of the Intermodal Surface Transportation Equity Act of 1991 (ISTEA), federal legislation allowing both for increased spending on bicycling improvements and for bicyclists to participate in local transportation planning. L.A.W. also publishes the bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin, which provides the most comprehensive, bicycle advocacy and planning information and advice available in the nation. In between advocacy and education efforts, L.A.W. manages to find time to enjoy bicycling. L.A.W.'s national and regional rallies bring together members from all over the U.S.A. and Canada for great riding and entertainment, daily workshops include, advocacy, safety, club leadership, cycling techniques, and more. Pedal for Power, another division of L.A.W., hosts Across America and North-Southa rides that raise money for bicycling and various charities of the rider's choice. Eight issues per year of Bicycle USA magazine to keep members up to date on League activities. Regular features include effective cycling tips, Government Relations and Education columns, cycle news, and an event calendar. Special issues include an annual Almanac and Tourfinder. L.A.W. offers national touring services to members including Ride Information Contacts in every state. While touring, members can also stay in the homes of more than 600 fellow members, free of charge, through the Hospitality Homes network. League members can fly their bikes for free on TWA, America West, USAir, Continental, and Northwest airlines when they make their travel arrangements through the Sports National Reservation Center. L.A.W. is a 501c-3 non-profit organization with membership of more than 24,000 bicyclists and 500 affiliated clubs and coalitions nationwide. Individual membership costs $25/year or $30 for families. Advocacy membership, which includes the bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin costs an additional $10/year. To join the League of American Bicyclists send your membership contribution to 190 W. Ostend St., Suite 120, Baltimore, MD 21230-3755, or call (410) 539-3399. For membership by phone call 1-800-288-BIKE. For a membership form to pay by credit card see the "How to Join League" file. ------------------------------ Subject: 6.3 Rules for trail riding From: Roland L. Behunin The Salt Lake Ranger District of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest has some guidelines for trail riding in their district. Here they are: 1. Yield the right of way to other non-motorized recreationists. People judge all cyclists by your actions. Move off the trail to allow horse to pass and stop to allow hikers adequate room to share the trail. 2. Slow down and use caution when approaching another and make your presence known well in advance. Simply yelling bicycle is not acceptable. 3. Maintain control of your speed at all times and approach turns anticipation of someone around the bend. Be able to stop safely within the distance you can see down the trail. 4. Stay on designated trails to avoid trampling native vegetation, and minimize potential erosion by not using wet or muddy trails or shortcutting switchbacks. Avoid wheel lockup. If a trail is steep enough to require locking wheels and skidding, dismount and walk your bike. Locking brakes contributes to needless trail damage. Do not ride cross-country. Water bars are placed across to direct water off the trail and prevent erosion. Ride directly over the top, or dismount and walk your bike. 5. Do not disturb wildlife or livestock. 6. Do not litter. Pack out what you pack in and carry out more than your share whenever possible. 7. Respect public and private property, including trail use signs, no trespassing signs, and leave gates as you found them. If your route crosses private property, it is your responsibility to obtain permission from the landowner. Bicycles are excluded from designated Wilderness Areas. 8. Always be self sufficient. Your destination and travel speed will be determined by your ability, your equipment, the terrain, and the present and potential weather conditions. 9. Do not travel solo in remote areas. Leave word of your destination and when you plan to return. 10. Observe the practice of minimum impact bicycling. "Take only pictures and leave only waffle prints." 11. Always wear a helmet. 12. If you abuse it-you lose it!. Since mountain bikers are newcomers to the forests, they must prove to be responsible trail users. From personal experience, you may also want to add the following information: 13. In National Parks and National Monuments bicycles are considered vehicles and restricted to roads. 14. On BLM land - ride only on roadways, trails, and slickrock. The desert crust (microbiotic crust) is fragile and takes up to 50 years to recover from footprints, waffle tracks, etc. 15. When camping out of improved campsites camp at least 500 feet off the road or trail. Try to leave no trace of your campsite. 16. Toilets in unimproved areas - move off trail, and dig a 1 foot deep pit, cover after use. ------------------------------ Subject: 6.4 Commuting - Is it possible for me to commute by bike? From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers) Not everyone can commute to work on a bicycle. Some people can't cycle to work in a reasonable time because of their fitness or because they live too far away. Other people need their cars for their jobs, or take children to school. Some employers frown on bicycle commuting, and don't provide any facilities. All these obstacles can be surmounted. If you want to commute by bike, you will find a way to do it. A few facilities at your workplace can make commuting easier. Minimally there should be racks in a well trafficked area. Some business will let you park them in your cube, and others might provide a closet or unused room to store them. My company provides enclosed lockers. If theft is a significant danger, consider buying a second, inexpensive bike to be used only for commuting. If your commute is short, and the dress code where you work is relaxed, you won't need to change or clean up after getting to work. The rest of us need to prepare for work. Every workplace has a bathroom where a sponge bath and change is possible. If you're lucky (like me) there's showers and lockers. If your ride makes you sweat a lot, and there is no way to take a shower at work, look around for a nearby gym. Sometimes you can arrange to change and shower there, then walk or ride slowly to work. If you want to get a workout, but there's nowhere to clean up at work, try getting your workout on the way home, making little or no effort on the way to work. If your ride is too long for a round trip, and there's no place to park, put your bike in your car and drive to work on Monday. Monday night, ride home. Tuesday morning ride to work and put your bike in the car. If you're tired Tuesday night, drive home. If there is a vanpool to work, get the vanpool driver to mount racks. Then you can take the vanpool in the morning and ride home in the afternoon. Some people reduce the length of their commute by driving to a "park and ride" area, then riding in from there. Another way to solve a long commute is to find out about bicycle accommodation on buses or other public transportation. Many people use a combination of bikes and buses, subways, or trains to make a long commute possible. Racks, bags and panniers: Some people drive in clothes once a week and buy lunch at work so they don't need to carry much on their bikes. Others need something to carry paperwork, lunch and clothes. A lot of commuters use knapsacks rather than putting racks on a bike, but this raises their center of gravity and increases wind resistance. Racks can be put on any bike, and they come in handy for running errands, touring and unsupported rides. If you're looking for a commuting bike, get one with rack eyelets on the frame for convenience. Another alternative are touring saddle bags, which are hard to find but are very handy on bikes without racks. Get your bike in shape. Replace tires which have cracked sidewalls, or worn casing. Carry a flat kit, a spare tube and enough tools to fix a flat. If you're not mechanically inclined, have a bike shop tune up your bike. Check every part of the drivetrain for lubrication and wear. Make sure your wheels are true, and that the hubs are lubricated and adjusted properly. Contributors: [I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to me] drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU burrows@bcu.ubc.ca jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu jones@greg.cs.usu.edu banders@netcom.com curt@cynic.portal.ca doosh@netcom.com "td" "Robert" ae505@yfn.ysu.edu cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu tbd@dfw.net timlee@netcom.com ------------------------------ Subject: 6.5 Commuting - How do I choose a route? From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers) According to the U.S. Uniform Vehicle Code, drivers of bicycles have the same rights, and the same responsibilities, as drivers of other vehicles. This means that commuters may use any road, street or highway they want, and that they must obey traffic laws. Some states vary from the UVC, and of course, some countries treat bicycles diffently than the US does. John Forester, in his book Effective Cycling, suggests that all cyclists use the following traffic principles: "1. Ride on the right-hand side of the road, not on the left and never on the sidewalk. [Note: this is specific to those countries which drive on the right hand side of the road, like the US. In countries like the UK, you should ride on the left side of the road.] 2. When approaching a road that is larger than the one you are on, or has more or faster traffic, you must yield to traffic on that road. Yielding means looking and waiting until you see that no traffic is coming. 3. When preparing to move laterally on a roadway, you must yield to traffic in that line of travel. Yielding means looking forward and backward to see that no traffic is in that line of travel. 4. When approaching an intersection, you must choose your position according to your destination. Right-turning drivers are at the curb, left turning drivers are at the center, while straight-through drivers are between them. 5. Between intersections, you choose your position according to your speed relative to other traffic. Parked ones are at the curb, medium-speed drivers are next to them, while fastest drivers are near the center of the road." Transportational cyclists want to maximize safety and minimize time. Usually the most direct route between the cyclist and work will be the best choice, but other factors may come into play. Facilities: Multi-use paths (trails shared with bicycles, pedestrians, skaters and sometimes horses) are less safe than the road, according to a recent study published in the Institute for Transportation Engineers journal; this kind of facility is more likely to send cyclists to the hospital than comparable streets. Pedestrians, pets and skaters are unpredictable and require more skill to pass safely. Sidepath intersections are very dangerous because motorists don't expect vehicular cross traffic. Roads with wide curb lanes are safer than narrow roads, but narrow roads may be ridden safely by using an entire lane. Bike lanes may be as safe as the same width roads without lanes as long as the rider is competent to avoid their dangers (e.g., they direct cyclists into right turn lanes, when the cyclist should normally ride to the left of the right turn lane). In California, cyclists traveling at less than the speed of traffic must remain in the bike lane unless preparing for a left turn or avoiding a hazard, like parked cars, a slower cyclist, rough pavement or debris. Traffic: even though arterials usually faster and more convenient than side streets, riding on side streets may be more enjoyable due to lower traffic noise and better scenery. Some cyclists are willing to ride the Huntington Beach multi-use path during the summer even though the fastest safe speed is 5mph. The view is very nice. The compromise among pleasure, safety and time is yours. Once you set your priorities, scout a few routes. Get the best street map you can find and highlight streets that you like. US Geological Survey maps (1:24000 scale) also show the hills, which is handy. They're beautiful maps, too. They look nice on a wall. Contributors: [I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to me] drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU burrows@bcu.ubc.ca jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu jones@greg.cs.usu.edu banders@netcom.com curt@cynic.portal.ca doosh@netcom.com "td" "Robert" ae505@yfn.ysu.edu cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu tbd@dfw.net timlee@netcom.com ------------------------------ Subject: 6.6 Commuting - Do I really need to look that goofy? From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers) Before I started cycling I had no idea why cyclists wore such silly looking clothes. Now I know why, but I still think we look silly. The value of using cycling clothes on a commute depends on the length of the commute. It is hardly worth it to ride 1 mile to work in cycling clothes and then change to regular clothes at work, but 20 miles is a different story. How to dress for the road, from the ground up: 1. Shoes: if you have a short commute with little climbing, virtually any kind of shoes and socks will do. I have seen commuters wearing cowboy boots moving at around 15 mph. If you expect to exert yourself for any length of time, some trade-offs should be considered. Socks made of cotton will retain moisture, while polyester type socks (e.g., Coolmax) will wick moisture and encourage it to evaporate. Cycling shoes are stiffer than casual or dress shoes, so transmitting energy to the pedal is more efficient. On the other hand, they are not comfortable to wear off the bike, so a change of shoes is necessary at work. For most of us, this is not a problem because shoes take up little space and can be left at the office. There are a range of options in cycling shoes, depending on your pedal choice. A note about pedals: - Flat pedals allow easy on-off and may be used with any shoes. If you hit a bump your feet may leave the pedals, which can result in loss of balance and a crash. - Toe clips and straps keep your feet on the pedals. They are designed to be used with cycling shoes, either touring shoes, which have a sole designed to hook onto a pedal, or racing shoes, which have cleats that lock the cyclist to the pedal and improve efficiency. Many people consider clips and straps to be obsolete, but they are a low cost way to improve your efficiency. They will work adequately with street shoes and hiking boots, which some people consider an advantage. - Clipless pedals attach your shoes to the pedals similar to the way skis attach to boots. With practice you can step in and out of them as easily as flat pedals, but they are more efficient than toe clips. These pedals require shoes that are compatible, and are much more expensive than toe clips. I use the SPD style of clipless pedals, which has a recessed cleat allowing you to walk around off the bike. I wouldn't recommend extensive walking in these shoes, but they are perfect for what I need. - Some pedals are flat on one side and clipless on the other, which allows the rider to choose to wear cleated shoes for performance or regular shoes for utility trips. - An adapter is available for some clipless pedals that will turn them into flat pedals with toe-clips. 2. Shorts: Casual cyclists ride at low speeds, at low RPMs, for short distances so no special shorts are necessary. If you ride for any distance you will need to develop a high RPM (80 - 110) for efficiency. When your legs are moving that fast, baggy clothes will chafe, as will the the seams in ordinary underwear, so you'll need something clingy like lycra. And if you exert yourself, you will need to have some kind of liner in these shorts to wick moisture from your privates. Bicycle shorts are meant to be worn with no underwear; they are usually made out of lycra and are lined with wicking pads. A good pair of bike shorts makes long rides a pleasure; in fact, I never get on my bike without them. 3. Jerseys and shirts: Cotton retains moisture, so if you sweat, cotton will keep it next to your skin, making you feel sticky and soggy. Yecch. Polyester fabrics are designed to wick moisture away from you and allow it to evaporate quickly. Bicycle jerseys are made out of polyester, and are cut longer in the back because cyclists usually ride leaning forward to reduce air resistance. Also, jerseys normally have two or three pockets in the back, handy for carrying a handkerchief, banana, etc. When I take my kids on rides I'll wear a tee shirt because I'm not going to sweat much, but I always wear a jersey on my commute. Some people like cotton and other natural fibers because they don't retain odors as much as the polyester fabrics. In cool weather, wool is ideal. 4. Gloves: gloves will make your commute much more comfortable, and will offer some protection in a crash. Long fingered gloves really help you stay warm when it's chilly. 5. Eyewear: If you are commuting at dawn or dusk, you should consider wearing clear glasses to protect your eyes from debris kicked up by cars and wind. In daylight, sunglasses are a necessity to protect against UV as well as road hazards. 6. Helmet: A helmet offers some protection in a crash, but the best way to survive a crash is to learn to avoid falling in the first place. I wear one, but I don't think it's some kind of magic talisman. 7. Other equipment: If there are unpredictable rains in your area, carry rain gear. The articles on riding in the winter are availble through ftp from: ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/wintertips ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/wintertips.pam If you might work late, carry a light. Articles on lights are available through ftp from: ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/arnie.light ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/lights ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/lights2 Contributors: [I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to me] drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU burrows@bcu.ubc.ca jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu jones@greg.cs.usu.edu banders@netcom.com curt@cynic.portal.ca doosh@netcom.com "td" "Robert" ae505@yfn.ysu.edu cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu tbd@dfw.net timlee@netcom.com ------------------------------ Subject: 6.7 Commuting - Do cyclists breathe more pollution than motorists? From: royce@ug.eds.com (Royce Myers) The sources for this information vary in credibility, but most of it comes directly from published studies or other reputable sources like the Berkeley Wellness letter. 1. Exercise will extend your life by about the amount of time you spend doing it. So if you spend an hour on your bike, you've added an hour to your life. 2. Drivers of cars are exposed to up to eighteen times more pollution than "ambient air", approximately 300 feet from the road. Cyclists share the road with cars, but they do not trap pollutants, and they take air in at a much higher position than cars (assuming a diamond frame) so... 3. Cyclists breathe approximately 1/2 as much pollution than cars (this appears to be _per breath_). 4. Over _time_, a cyclist will breathe much more than a sedentary driver, since the cyclist is using more than twice as much air. Athletes appear to be very sensitive to foul air. 5. In general, cycling takes longer than driving, so the bike commuter may be exposed to pollution for longer periods of time. 6. A UK study found that cyclists had 1/2 the blood level of CO that drivers did after traveling along a ten mile stretch of congested road. 7. CO blood levels may be less of a problem than inhaled particulates, which are much harder to measure. Masks make breathing difficult if they are properly sealed, and are ineffective if they are not sealed. As a result, the health advantages of commuting by bike depend on several key factors: 1. Would you exercise anyway? That is, would you drive to the gym and ride a stationary bike in relatively clean air if you weren't commuting in traffic. 2. How hard do you ride? The harder you ride, the more air -- and therefore pollution -- you take in. But then the better the training effect will be, so if you don't do any other exercise, this is a wash. 3. How long is your drive compared to your ride? If it takes significantly more time to ride, you may be exposed to more pollution. 4. What kind of car? An open air Jeep would take in and trap less pollution than a sedan. The health effects of exercise far outweigh any additional health dangers from pollution. If you would exercise anyway, though, commuting may not in your best interest. If you commute on low volume side streets, or on sidepaths, pollution might not get you, but other hazards might. Here is a rationalization for those of us who want to believe that cyclists get less pollution than motorists: One thing I've noticed about my commute: when I drive, I am _always_ surrounded by traffic. All us cars meet at the light and move from light to light more or less together. When I ride my bike, I meet cars at lights, but I don't spend a lot of time around them when they're rushing past me to get to the next light. The vast majority of time is spent between packs of cars, without much motor traffic. Since I'm not around cars very much I can believe: - I am breathing more garbage than a motorist when I'm in traffic - I am breathing less garbage than a motorist when I'm not in traffic - I am not in traffic far more often Therefore: I am probably getting less pollution on the bike than in my car! Contributors: [I did not retain the mail address of contributors who posted to the group without a sig; also, I may have missed some posts that weren't emailed to me] drobinso@mendel.une.edu.au ilana@niwot.scd.ucar.EDU burrows@bcu.ubc.ca jlbell@presto.eecs.umich.edu jones@greg.cs.usu.edu banders@netcom.com curt@cynic.portal.ca doosh@netcom.com "td" "Robert" ae505@yfn.ysu.edu cs4601ah@coral.cs.unm.edu tbd@dfw.net timlee@netcom.com ------------------------------ Subject: 7 Marketplace ------------------------------ Subject: 7.1 Marketplace hints/guidelines From: Jim Siler : Are people really willing to pay 10% less for a "nearly new" MTB when : they : a) often have no assurance that it really hasn't been used : (except of course someone's word) : b) may have to buy, unseen. : c) may not get a transferable waranty on the MTB I think that in general, many people are acutely aware of what they spent for a thing and are woefully unaware of how much value that thing lost when they walked out of the store. Let's assume for a moment that I buy an XTR rear derailleur in my local shop (good practice, worth some added cost) for $100. I use it for a week, and trash my frame and want to part it out. Hmmm... this was $100 new and its only a week old, virtually new. Let's ask $90 o.b.o. and see what happens. Now I change roles and become the buyer. I go to my local bike shop, where I trust the owner and am willing to pay a premium, but no XTR rear derailleur. Next stop mail order. Everyone but everyone has it for $80, plus shipping, but less tax. They will take a credit card. The unit is warrantied, in the box, with instructions (the value of which should not be underesimated). Given this I am unlikeley to even consider the used part. But let's suppose I offer $75, and send off my money order, sight unseen. What can happen? 1 -- It never arrives. After a number of hassles and excuses I realize that there is a major problem. Email stops being returned. I contact his sysadm, who can't do much. I publicly flame him, starting one more interminable flame war. Eventually I either get my $75 bucks back or not. Even if I get the derailleur (remeber, the original object was the derailleur) I have bought myself hundreds of dollars worth of aggravation. 2 -- It arrives and looks like hell. C'est la vie. 3 -- I arrives and one week later it is obvious that something is seriously wrong. No amount of adjustment will cause it to shift reliably for any length of time. See 2, above. 4 -- While waiting for arrival i trash MY frame. Derailleur arrives. Sadly, I have nothing to hang it on. See 2, above. Let's run through the same scenarios having purchased through mail order, using a credit card. 1 -- I don't pay. If they get pissy about it I do too. As most mail order houses have, at best, a fragile relationship with Mastecard/Visa (it is VERY difficult to open a merchant account to accept credit cards over the phone for mail order, so difficult that many use their in store accounts, faking signatures) and are dependent on that relationship to stay in business, they tend to become most reasonable when you make real noise with the credit card company. 2 -- Unlikely, as goods should be new. See 1, above. 3 -- Warranty problem. If you have a good local dealer, you would have been better off there. If you have a so-so dealer you may well be better off through mail order. Worse comes to worst, see 1, above. 4 -- Worst case, you eat a restocking fee. In general, I would be hesitant to buy anything here for much more than 60% of its mail order price, unless the product is exactly what I want and all else is right. I have bought two things this year through this group, a GT Zaskar LE frame, new in the box with slight cosmetic ding for $350 (negotiated from $375) and a Flashlite 2 tent with a tiny hole, professionally repaired, for $100. Both carried resonable prices in the original post, offered to pay the shipping, and clearly spelled out the possible problems with the product for sale. Both sales were satisfactory to all involved, and I am delighted with both. I have seen many other Items for sale that I have wanted and bought elsewhere because the posted prices were so ridiculous that I had no basis for negotiation. Typically, these are reposted with sad wonderings as to why no one has responded. C'est la vie. In general, I think that anyone wanting to move something quickly through posting should do the following: Be realistic with price. Look at the true market value of your goods. It is not what you paid. You are going to take a loss. If your fork, which was the hottest thing in July of this year, cost you $600 in a store is not any better than the new $375 fork that is available in December, its market value is certainly no more than $375, if it is new. Unless limited availability takes it out of the commodity realm (e.g., my Zaskar frame with blemish had only limited availibility) knock off 40% of the realistic market value. Our fork is now down to $225. If this makes you too queasy, up it a bit and throw in shipping, say $275 with U.P.S. ground shipping, hmmm... not too bad. Clearly state everything of importance to the buyer, good and bad. This will avoid later hassles, and greatly increase your trust factor. Don't initially offer at an inflated price, thinking to negotiate down (remember back to Onza Clipless Pedals for sale flame war). It just makes it clear to an intellegent buyer that you are hoping to find a sucker, and will take whatever advantage you can. This may not be true, but it will be clear, nonetheless. Trust factor goes down the toilet. Make phone contact as soon as possible. A human voice is often more comforting than an email address. To anyoune who has read this far, thanks for putting up with my rambling and opining. ------------------------------ Subject: 7.2 Bike Trailers [Ed note: The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".] ------------------------------ Subject: 7.3 One Less Car T-Shirts From: Alayne McGregor (Ed Ravin panix!eravin@cmcl2.nyu.edu) The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York City bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo on the front, and ONE LESS CAR on the back. Call TA for colors and sizes currently in stock. They're US$15 each. No refunds or exchanges. Allow 6 weeks for delivery. For people who have to drive but feel guilty about it, they also have "I'm Polluting the Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5. Send orders to: Transportation Alternatives 92 Saint Marks Place New York, NY 10009 USA attn: One Less Car I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots of comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing our shirts. ------------------------------ Subject: 7.4 Panniers and Racks From: Sharon Pedersen This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider racks, loading and generators. --Sharon pedersen@cartan.berkeley.edu --PANNIERS-- Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart. Commuting to school entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making sturdiness as important here as for touring. Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well. Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use of space. You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets. One big and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty. Fastening--lots of options: bungees and hooks, or fixed placement hooks, or straps with buckles or cams. Bungees and hooks have been just fine in my own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will want more security. However, don't get a system with so many attachments that you can't stand to take the panniers on/off. Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with telegraphic comments made in 1988. Check local stores since features may have changed since then. Eclipse--(no comment); Kirtland--tourers like them; MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in Santa Rosa, CA, (707) 545-4624; Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than average cost" yeah! (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials); Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment; Rhode Gear--expensive; Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment. --LOW-RIDER RACKS-- Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager. The Bruce Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with clearance for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them apart to take the front wheel off. --REAR RACKS-- (No comment in the original article; Blackburns seem to be the standard and durable enough.) --LOADING-- Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft. Keep heavier items low and towards the bottom bracket. Rider, bike and luggage together should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel; remainder on front. Bike with front low-riders is quite stable. --GENERATORS-- The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers. Mount the generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and it will work fine, despite rotating "backwards." Or go with a generator under the bottom bracket, which will have the advantage of putting the wear on the tread rather than the sidewall of the tire. ------------------------------ Subject: 7.5 Clothing materials From: Jim Carson [Ed note: From a summary Jim posted] Polarlite Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla. Comfortable. Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind. Doesn't wick moisture out very well. Breathes very well. Supplex (nylon) Comfortable. It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof). Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched Merino (wool) From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing a heavy fleece of exceptional quality." I guess you could treat this as normal 100% wool. Thermax An improvement on Polypro. The big advantage is heat resistance so you can put it in the dryer. Balance that against the extra cost. CoolMax This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking material it is advertised as. Dacron Trademark name for Dupont polyester. Woven fabric made from dacron is similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy. Many of the better clothing insulations are made from dacron. They are usually refered to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard, and dacron-88. Lycra Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing. GoreTex A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes. Gortex's claim to fame is that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but not liquid water (rain). It blocks wind fairly well too. The membrane is delicate, so it always comes laminated between 2 layers of other material. It does not breathe enough. There are less expensive alternatives. Polypropylene Does not wick very well. Can be uncomfortable. Troublesome to care for (e.g. can pill badly) Will keep you fairly warm if soaked. Not very wind resistant. Melts in the dryer. Capilene Wicks moisture away. Very comfortable. Comes in different weights for more/less warmth. [lots of favorable things about it... only really unfavorable thing is the co$t] 60/40 cloth - This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in the other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came along, and is considerably less expensive. Good wind resistance, fairly breathable. Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray it with Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain. ------------------------------ Subject: 7.6 Seats Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons. There are several types of seats: Leather Seats like the Brooks models. Usually used by hard-core riders. Requires breaking in before it's really comfortable. Padded The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic". Has padding where your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest. Gel Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them for additional padding. Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift, making the seat uncomfortable. There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder, etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable. If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women readers) you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the section on seat adjustment). Women may need a women's type seat, which is wider in the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's). Most pain can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat, and riding so your body becomes used to it. ------------------------------ Subject: 7.7 Women's Saddles From: Pamela Blalock Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find a comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I end up talking with other women about saddles. This article comes from those discussions and an informal survey of woman's saddle preferences. This is a dynamic article and changes on occasion, so if you have comments please contact me (pamela@keps.com) and I will incorporate your comments. While this is intended to be an article on women's saddles, since so many other things can contribute to potential saddle pain, it will also address some of these issues as well. Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each other. Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all poured, what works for one woman may not work for another. First, be sure that your bike fits properly. Many women end up with overly padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of with a bike that fits properly. No saddle will be comfortable if the bike is too big, or set up incorrectly. It is important to find someone who knows about fit and specifically about women's fit and get the bike set up properly before making other changes. In addition to being more comfortable, a bike that really fits will also handle better than one that is improperly sized. It isn't always easy to find someone willing to take the time, but when you find a shop that will, give them lots of business and send your friends there! Go to shops during non-prime hours for the best service. You won't get a salesman to spend an hour letting you try different saddles on a Saturday afternoon, but you might on a Tuesday morning. Most production bikes are built proportionally for the AVERAGE MAN. But the average man tends to be taller than the average woman, so women, especially smaller women, may have a much more difficult time finding a bike that fits. Using the old guidelines of sizing a bike by straddling the top tube may leave you a bike with a top tube that is too long, since many of these smaller bikes have shorter seat tubes, but the top tubes are left at the same length as larger bikes, so the bike is no longer scaled proportionately. Of course this is not strictly a woman's issue, but one that all smaller riders face. Empirical evidence has come to suggest that many women are more comfortable with a shorter top tube - stem combination than men. Originally it was theorized that this was due to women having longer legs and shorter torsos than men of the same height. Statistics have proven otherwise. But despite the similar proportions, many women still felt stretched out on bikes that men of the same size felt comfortable on. There is no one definitive explanation for this. Some have proposed that women may bend from the waist while men pivot more at the hips, which would explain why two riders with identical torso lengths might still want different top tube stem lengths. Georgena Terry has observed that women tend to sit further back on their saddles than men, which she believes is due to different distributions in muscle mass. Again this could lead to that stretched out feeling. I struggled for the longest time to get comfortable on a bike. I always wanted to sit further back than I could. I finally found a gadget that I could use to mount my saddle further back on the seat post. This really helped. What helped even more was when I switched to a softride bike. I switched for comfort, but discovered a very pleasant benefit, that with the 5 inch range (fore/aft) of saddle adjustment along the flat part of the beam, I could effectively choose any seat tube angle I wanted. I could finally get my saddle far enough back. A riding position that leaves the rider too stretched out can cause saddle pain. It is not necessary to run out and buy a new bike right away if the top tube on your current bike is too long. Using a shorter stem on a this bike MAY give you a more comfortable reach. Very short stems, less than 40 mm, are available, but may have to be specially ordered. Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers generated from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for everybody, especially women, since most of the original data was collected for men. It is important to RIDE your bike and make adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may use an infinitely adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed by Ben Serotta to help choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a Serotta or not. Adjustable stems are available to help you and the shop pick a perfect length stem the first time, rather than the expensive trial and error method of buying different length stems repeatedly until you find the right size. Unless your current bike is a really, really poor fit, you should be able to make a few relatively inexpensive changes to improve the fit. Then when upgrading or buying a new bike, use what you have learned to buy a bike that fits better. Some builders tried to shorten the top tube by increasing the seat tube angle, which then may place the rider uncomfortably far forward over the pedals. This forces the rider to use an adapter in the seat post to get the saddle back, which counteracts the *shorter* top tube. A steep seat tube angle may be good for a time trial or triathlon, but is not comfortable for longer distances, recreational riding or touring. And if it is true that women tend to be more comfortable sitting further back, then this is really counterproductive. A sloping top tube has been used by many manufacturers to achieve a shorter seat tube and more standover clearance, but this leaves the top tube length the same as that for a larger bike, so the smaller rider still feels streched out on a somewhat out of proportion bike.. Several manufacturers have started building bikes proportionally sized for smaller riders to specifically address those needs. There are several different ways of getting the smaller geometry. Some bikes have a small 24" wheel in front and a 700C or 26" wheel in back, others have two 26"or 650C wheels. To truly scale down a frame keeping it in proportion, it is necessary to go with smaller wheels. To avoid confusion, let me state that by 26", I am referring to 559mm bead seat diameter. This size wheel is most commonly used in mountain biking. Thanks to mountain bikers use of very narrow rims, and a few tire manufacturers willingness to make narrow, slick tires for this size, these wheels can be used to build smaller bikes with proper proportions. Several manufacturers make 1.25 high pressure slicks which are very nice for loaded touring or casual riding. Specialized has the ATB turbo, which they advertise as 1 inch wide. I am currently using these on my commuter in good weather. And I understand from recumbent riding friends that other 26X1" tires are available through 'bent specialty shops. While the selection of narrow tires is somewhat limited, it is growing. I understand there is more variety in Germany, and soon both Ritchey and Continental will have narrow tires available in the US market. By 650C, I am referring to wheels with a bead seat diameter of 571mm. These wheels have found their way onto many triathlon bikes. These wheels are also occasionally referred to as 26" wheels, which is why the bead seat diameter number is so important. Tires for these two different *26 inch* wheel sizes are NOT interchangeable, and it is very important to know which one you have. Currently there is a very narrow range of tires available for this wheel size, and I mean narrow in more ways than one. In the US, the widest available tire is a Continental 23 or Michelin 20. In my opinion, neither of these tires is really wide enough for general purpose use on rough roads, and definitely not quite up to touring standards. Of course I live in New England where road surfaces are quite rough. I have used wheels of this size on a softride equipped bike. I don't believe I could take the shock from such a skinny tire on a non-suspended bike, at least not for longer rides. 700C is of course ISO 622, and is the most common wheel size for road bikes in the US today. In addition to a shorter top tube, women's bikes may also have smaller brake levers, narrower handlebars, shorter cranks and wider saddles. Georgena Terry was the pioneer in this area, but many other manufacturers now build women's bikes. They may cost a little more than a comparably equipped man's bike, due to higher production costs for fewer number of parts. But, I believe that the extra initial cost to get a properly fit bike will pay off in the long run, since you will either stop riding an uncomfortable or poorly fitting bike, or you will eventually replace the poorly fitting parts at additional cost. Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than a man's. (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!) Every woman is different, and there are many women out there with narrower hip bones. To determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb. Sorry, a chair won't do! When you sit on the curb, you will be able to feel your sit bones. This is what you want supported by your bike saddle. Avocet used to run a great ad showing a hip bone sitting on a saddle. (look in old copies of bike magazines). With a saddle that's too narrow, a woman may find herself effectively straddling it with her hip bones, or slipping off of one side and pinching nerves - which may eventually cause the legs or feet to go numb. A saddle that's too wide will also cause problems. A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that comes on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones. BTW, I'm not talking about those foot wide saddles you see on exercise bikes at the gym. These are too wide for anyone. I have quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel indicating exactly where my bones are. Actually, looking at and feeling your old saddle will tell you a lot about where you do and do not need support! It's important to try out several different saddles to find one that fits. Terry does produce a couple of different width models but they are still somewhat limited. Widths do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer - so for example, if the Terry is too wide or too narrow, try the Vetta or Avocet or some other brand. Ask your local dealer to let you put your bike on a trainer in the shop and try sitting on and riding a few of his saddles. Saddles are fairly easy to change and a good shop should be willing to let you try this. (But not on a busy Saturday afternoon!) Some shops now have a device that makes this easier. It is a stationary bike with merry-go-round of saddles. You can sit on the saddle, pedaling, and then dismount and swing the next saddle to be tried in place. It isn't as good as trying a saddle on your bike, but will tell you a lot more than holding a saddle and poking it, which it seems it how most saddles are purchased! There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are padded with some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of these with no complaints. The gel does compress after a while (regardless of sex), so these saddles do have to be replaced (for me it's every 10,000 miles). Brooks also has several different models of women's leather saddles, which some women swear by. I swar at them, but that's me! (And there are women who swear at the saddles I swear by!) And rather than needing to be replaced after 10,000 miles, the Brooks is probably just getting broken in well at that point! Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of their saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft tissue. A large variety of saddles were used with this method. One rider pointed out that having a seatpost with infinitely adjustable angles, like the American Classic or Control Tech, will help one to find the perfect angle. With the ratchet type adjustment of most, she was never able to get the angle quite right. One problem with having the saddle tilted too far forward is that you may end up with two much weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The result is numb hands and pain in the lower back. In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a cheap plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where the labia would normally rest. This would place the weight on the sit bones where it belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it does not. A couple of women used this idea and modified saddle pads in this way. I watched a Spenco pad slowly get modified in this way each day throughout PAC Tour last year. One survey respondent cut up a neoprene pad and put it under the covering of her Flite saddle. There are a couple of women's saddles which specifically address this issue, the Terry Sport and the (formerly) Miyata Pavea (see the end of the article for more info on acquiring this saddle). Both are shorter and wider than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole to suspend soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when level. The Miyata leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered in an open-cell low-density foam. I should also point out that with the Terry, the hole is in the nose, while the Miyata saddle has the hole in the middle, further back. While like many women, I tend to bend more at the waist, I also roll my hips forward on a saddle to get in a more comfortable (and aero cycling position). This means that on a standard saddle I am pressing directly on tender tissue. Since I've switched to a saddle with a hole in it, I can without any saddle related discomfort roll my hips forward, and strech out on the aero bars for hours! I heard from Carol Grossman, an Australian rider praising another saddle. She wrote , "I have a Selle Bassano modular seat, which may or may not be available in the US ( I live in Australia now). It has two halves, with the split running nose-to-tail and a gap between them. It joins together at the nose. The width of the seat, and therefore of the gap as well, is adjustable so you can set it to match the width of your seatbones. It has titanium rails, which give it a little bit of spring. I must say, though, that it is quite firm and if I have not been riding much and go for a long ride I do get sore seatbones. But I can live with sore seatbones! Interestingly, the packaging material said nothing about it being for women -- it was marketted as a seat for men who suffered numbness." My concern with this saddle is that as you make it wider in the back to accommodate sit bones, you are also making the middle wider as well. I have not personally triedon e of these yet. T-Gear makes a leather saddle with a diamond shape cut in the middle. The saddle is quite narrow and firm, and didn't fit me, but I've heard some men rave about it. John, my SO found it too narrow in the back, and too wide in the middle. Like the Selle Modular seat it is marketed to men with numbness problems. (Mine is for sale!) Another saddle I have tried very briefly is an Easy Seat. This is actually two separate pieces, which rock independently. The only points of contact are the hip bones - although the backs of my legs rub the saddle. The two pieces can be adjusted for width and angle. I know of a couple of women who used these saddles to salvage Race Across America attempts, when saddle sores otherwise would have taken them out of the race. I mounted this saddle on the bike on my indoor trainer, but we had a wickedly mild winter, so I didn't use it this year. I have used both the Terry and the Miyata a lot. (These were the two most popular saddles in the survey.) I've received lots of positive comments from women (and men) about their experiences with these saddles. The men seem to notice the difference more after the ride later in the evening :) when their partners weren't complaining about saddle tenderness! In 1992 I did BMB, a 750 mile ride in less than 4 days on the back of a tandem. That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry for over 6 months and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles. But 400 miles into the trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the hole. Once the swelling started, the presence of the foam became unbearable. Even though there was no plastic shell underneath, there was still something! I asked our crew person to see if he could find the Miyata saddle. It's often quite difficult to find women's products, and I was almost shocked when he showed up 20 miles later with this wonderful saddle with an exposed hole. He had found the Miyata. The difference was immediately noticeable. In addition to the missing foam, the hole was further back (more where I needed the relief). I probably would have finished the ride without it, but I wouldn't have been in a good mood for days! The Miyata is a little harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but that's not where I was experiencing pain, and as Carol said above, it was worth the sacrifice. Of course the saddle is different looking and draws lots of comments and sexual innuendoes, but it saved my ride. Over three years and 45,000 miles later, including 2 x-country rides and another BMB, I still love my Miyata and won't ride anything else. Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's saddles too wide. Several women responded to the survey saying they prefer a man's saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip bones. For those who use a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat on top seemed to help with the above mentioned problems. Others who liked various women's saddles still found them a little thick in the middle, even if they were the right width in the back. Someday, maybe we will see women's saddles in various widths. We must create the demand though. Terry does makes a men's version of their Sport saddle. It is narrower and has a longer nose and hole than the women's model. It also doesn't say Terry on it anywhere. Instead it is marketed under the initials TFI. Both this saddle and new models of the Sport have a (politically correct) simulated leather covering. I know of several men who really like this saddle, especially when using aero-bars. Women who find the Terry Sport too wide may want to check this one out. I've seen Terry saddles change a bit over the past couple of years. One change is from a lycra cover to a simulated leather cover. Some women didn't like the feel of the lycra. (I do.) Another women noticed after replacing a stolen one with a new one that the foam in the hole seems to be getting firmer, kind of negating the benefit of the hole. Terry does offer a 30 day money back guarantee on their products, so you can *painlessly* decide if you'd like a Terry saddle or not. They have also produced a couple of racing saddles. The first was the same width in the back as their Sport model, but narrower through the middle and had titanium rails. I was one of the lucky few to get one of these. They replaced it with a Flite lookalike with holes drilled in the nose. I tried one of these and must say for me it was the most uncomfortable thing I ever came into contact with. But if you prefer a narrow saddle like a Flite, you'll probably like this one. Speaking of which, many women do LIKE Flite and other really narrow saddles. I know that at their cycling camps, Betsy King and Anna Schwartz get many women on them. They stress the flexibility of the saddle with it's titanium rails and thin shell. They are very good for mountain biking where you want to slide off the back of the saddle for balance where a wide saddle would get in the way. I even know of a few women who use them for distance cycling. Two women used them on the x-country ride I did in 93, but they had very narrow set hip bones. The other 15 women had women's models of one type or another, including Terry, Brooks and of course I had my beloved Miyata. And I would be completely negligent if I didn't mention that one respondent said that recumbents almost always solve the uncomfortable saddle problem. (Thanks to David Wittenberg for pointing this out. His wife won't ride anything else.) Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort included trying different shorts. There are a lot of different shorts out there - far more than saddles and just like saddles, they all fit differently. The common theme from most women was to stay away from shorts with seams in the center. This includes seams in the lycra as well as the chamois (good luck!). On multiday rides, you may want to use different brands of shorts, since having the seam in the same place day after day may also cause irritation. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause also discomfort. Pearl Izumi and Urbanek make very nice women's shorts. And of course Terry produces women's shorts. Some have fuller hips, longer legs, wider elastic leg grippers, etc. I really prefer bib or one piece suits, since there is no binding elastic at the waist. These are less convenient for quick bathroom stops, but I prefer the added comfort. Some women like longer legs, some shorter. Some prefer thick chamois, some fake, some real. Try on as many different types as you can, until you find one that fits you the best. Women are even more varied on their opinions about shorts than on saddles, so just keep trying new ones until you find the perfect pair for you. (And while on the subject of saddle comfort, I use a combination of Desitin (or some other diaper rash ointment) and powder sprinkled liberally in my shorts to keep myself dry and rash-free.) I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle is perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or your friend, or this author uses a particular type of saddle doesn't mean that it will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into riding something that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your saddle because it's different. Use the setup that's most comfortable for you. Among the saddles recommended by respondents were Terry Women's (most popular of the survey) Miyata Pavea (my favorite and a close second in the survey) TFI (men's version of the Terry Sport) women's Selle Italia Turbo Avocet O2 (said to be as comfy as the above Turbo, but lighter) WaveFlo Avocet Women's Racing saddle Viscount saddle San Marco Regal Brooks B-17 and Brooks Pro Flite Terry Racing (like a Flite with holes drilled in the plastic) Selle Bassano modular seat (Of course some women swear at saddles that others swear by! Did I mention that we are all DIFFERENT?) Since Miyata no longer imports into the US, another source has been found for the saddle with the hole in the middle. Tandems East is now carrying this saddle (with their name imprinted on the back.) You can contact Mel Kornbluh at Tandems East at (609) 451-5104 or (609) 453-8626 FAX ------------------------------ Subject: 7.8 Women's Bikes From: Lynn Karamanos Here's a summary of the info I received on whether or not to purchase a Terry bike. 1.) First, find a good bike shop, one that will try to find a bike that fits you, not just sell you what they have in stock. 2.) Ride many different bikes to see what's best for you. You may be able to find other bikes that fit just as well as a Terry once you've made some adjustments/replacements (stem, crank arms, etc.). 3.) If you can't find any other bike to fit you, then a Terry's worth the extra money. 4.) Except for about two people who sent me email, everyone who's ridden a Terry has loved it. Even those two people said they knew others who loved Terry bikes. Bottom line: the fit depends on your build. Women with long legs/short torso seem to be the ones who like them, not necessarily just short women. 5.) Also a few people mentioned that there are other road bikes that are specifically "designed for women" or that fit women well. The names mentioned: Fuji, Miyata, Bridgestone, Specialized (Sirrus). Also, someone mentioned that the same production line in Japan that makes Terry "proportioned" bikes also makes them under other labels. (Also one mountain bike was named, Mongoose Hilltopper, and two hybred bikes, Univega Via Activa and Giant Inova.) 6.) Something to keep in mind if you buy a Terry with a small front wheel... replacement tubes and tires for smaller wheels could be more difficult to find and/or more expensive. 7.) In case you're looking at older model Terry's, a few people mentioned that until a couple years ago, some Terry bikes were $200-$300 less than they are now. ------------------------------ Subject: 7.9 Bike Rentals From: Various Lincoln Guide Service Lincoln Center Lincoln, MA (617) 259-9204 Rents mountain, road, kids bikes, and trailers. About 11 miles west of Boston, within sight of Lincoln Center commuter rail stop. Team Bicycle Rentals 508 Main Huntington Beach, CA (714) 969-5480 12spd $29/day, MTB $29/day, Santana tandem $69 Gregg's Greenlake Seattle, WA Second Gear Seattle, WA New York City Area: All phone numbers are area code (212). A West Side Bicycle Store -- 231 W 96th St -- 663 7531 Eddie's Bicycles Shop -- 490 Amsterdam Ave -- 580 2011 Country Cycling Tours -- 140 W 83rd St -- 874 5151 AAA Central Park Bicycle Rentals -- 72nd St/ Central Pk Boathouse -- 861 4137 Midtown Bicycles -- 360 W 47th St -- 581 4500 Sixth Avenue Bicycles -- 546 Avenue of the Americas -- 255 5100 Metro Bicycle -- 1311 Lexington Ave -- 427 4450 Larry and Jeff's Bicycles Plus -- 204 E 85th St -- 794 2201 Gene's 79th Street Discounted Bicycles -- 242 E 79th St -- 249 9218 Peddle Pusher Bicycle Shop -- 1306 2nd Ave -- 288 5594 A Bicycle Discount House -- 332 E 14th St -- 228 4344 City Cycles -- 659 Broadway -- 254 4457 San Francisco Park Cyclery -- 1865 Haight street (at Stanyan) -- 751-RENT Start to Finish -- 599 2nd Street at Brannan -- 861-4004 Marin County, CA Caesars Cyclery -- 29 San Anselmo Ave San Anselmo -- 258-9920 Far-go bike Shop -- 194 Northgate #1 Shopping Center San Rafael -- 472-0253 Ken's Bike and Sport -- 94 Main Street (Downtown Tiburon) -- 435-1683 Wheel Escapes -- 1000 Magnolia Ave Larkspur -- 415-332-0218 Austin, TX area [all stores rent ONLY mountain bikes] Bicycle Sport Shop -- 1426 Toomey Road -- (512) 477-3472 University Schwinn -- 2901 N. Lamar Blvd -- (512) 474-6696 University Schwinn -- 1542 W. Anderson Ln -- (512) 474-6696 Velotex Inc -- 908-B W 12th St -- (512) 322-9131 Boulder, CO Boulder Bikesmith, Arapahoe Village, Boulder, (303) 443-1132 Bike'n'Hike, 1136 Main St, Longmont, (303) 772-5105 High Wheeler, 1015 Pearl St., Boulder, (303) 442-5588 (MTBs, Road and MTB tandems) Lousiville Cyclery, 1032 S. Boulder Rd, Louisville, (303) 665-6343 Morgul-Bismark, 1221 Pennsylvania Ave, Boulder, (303) 447-1338 Doc's Ski and Sport, Table Mesa Center, Boulder, (303) 499-0963 University Bikes, 9th and Pearl, Boulder, (303) 449-2562 (MTBs and Tandems) Full Cycle. 1211 13th St., Boulder, (303) 440-7771 High Gear, 1834 N. Main, Longmont, (303) 772-4327 Cutting Edge Sports, 1387 S. Boulder Rd., Louisville, (303) 666-3440 ------------------------------ Subject: 7.10 Bike Lockers From: David H. Wolfskill Many thanks to all who mailed or posted an interest in my quest for information regarding bike locker vendors; I apologize for the delay in posting this summary. My colleague -- thanks to some of that information -- was able to locate a sufficiently nearby vendor... one of the requirements of which I had not been aware was that the vendor must be fairly close (to Orange County, CA) -- to minimize shipping charges. (I apologize for failing to determine this issue before posting, and hope that some of the information about other vendors may be of value to others.) I figured it would be more useful for me to organize the information, so I have done so -- at the expense of making an attempt to give credit for the sources at the point the information is quoted. (I include a list of sources at the end of the article.) First, I received a few pointers to one Ellen Fletcher, such as: >For a comprehensive treatment of the bicycle parking subject, >along with a list of vendors & prices, contact Ellen Fletcher >at cdp!scvba@labrea.stanford.edu (put "ATTN ELLEN" in your >"To" line. [I requested clarification regarding addressing a note to Ms. Fletcher, but have yet to receive it.] >... Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA >94303-4826, 415-495-8943. Fortunately, someone sent a list of products & manufacturers, apparently originally compiled by Ms. Fletcher. I have taken the liberty of using that list as a "base document" and have augmented it with other information I received; entries are alphabetically by munufacturer's name, since I don't always have product names: (Manufacturer, {Product Name(s)}, Address, Contact Person, Phone, FAX [comments]) American Bicycle Security Co., {BIKE SAFE}, PO Box 7359 Ventura, CA 93006, Thomas E. Volk, 805-933-3688 & 800-BIKESAF, 805-933-1865. Bike Lockers Company, {BikeLokr}, PO Box 445 W. Sacramento, CA 95691,, 916-372-6620, 916-372-3616 [approx. $300/locker, small quantities]. Bike-Lokr Mfg. Co., {?}, PO Box 123, Joplin, MO 64802, Jim Snyder, 417-673-1960/800-462-4049, 417-673-3642 [approx $450/locker, which holds 2 bikes; seem to be the lockers used by the Washington, DC Metro system] Bike Security Racks Co., {?}, PO Box 371, Cambridge, MA 02140,, 617-547-5755, - Bike Stable Co., Inc., {?}, PO 1402, South Bend, Indiana 46624,, 219-233-7060, - Cycle-Safe Inc., 2772-5 Woodlake Rd. SW Wyoming, MI 49509,, (616)538-0079 - David O'Keefe Company, {Super Secure Bike Stor}, P.O. Box 4457, Alamo, CA 94507, Thomas & David O'Keefe, 415-637-4440, 415-837-6234. General Machine company, {Bicycle Locker}, PO Box 405 Vacaville, CA 95696, Vitto Accardi, 707-446-2761, - J.G.Wilson Corp, {Park'n'Lock Bike Garage}, PO Box 599, Norfolk, VA 23501-0599, J.L.Bevan, 804-545-8341, 804-543-3249. Sunshine U-LOK Corp., {Secura Bike Locker}, 31316 Via Colinas Suite 102, Westlake Village, CA 91362, Doug Devine, 818-707-0110. [Specific information near the end of the article -- dhw.] Turtle Storage Ltd., {?}, P. O. Box 7359, Ventura, CA 93006,,, - [Ed. note: The complete posting is available in the archives on draco.acs.uci.edu.] ------------------------------ Subject: 7.11 Bike computer features [This table was created from information contained in Performance and Nashbar catalogs. In the table below, 'Y' means that the computer has the feature, 'O' means it is an optional feature.] Speed Ave Max Total Trip Elpsd Clock Auto Count Speed Speed Miles Miles Time OnOff Down Avocet 30 Y Y Y Y Y Y Avocet 40 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Avocet 50 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Cateye Micro Y Y Y Y Y Y Cateye Mity Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Cateye Mity 2 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Cateye Wireless Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Cateye Vectra Y Y Y Y Y Y Cateye ATC Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Ciclo 37 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Ciclo IIA Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Performance ITV Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta Innovator Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta HR1000 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta C-10 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta C-15 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta C-20 Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta Two Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Vetta Wireless Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Specialized Y Y Y Y Y Y Y S Speed Zone Cadence Wireless Altitude Heart Rate Avocet 30 Avocet 40 Avocet 50 O Y Cateye Micro Y Cateye Mity Cateye Mity 2 Cateye Wireless Y Cateye Vectra Cateye ATC Ciclo 37 Ciclo IIA O O O Performance ITV Vetta Innovator Vetta HR1000 Y Vetta C-10 Vetta C-15 Vetta C-20 Y Vetta Two Y Vetta Wireless Y Specialized Speed Zone ------------------------------ Subject: 7.12 Recumbent Bike Info From: David Wittenberg (updated by Gary Walsh gary.walsh@canrem.com) Here's my standard response to questions about recumbents. I'd be happy to answer more specific questions. Here's some info I posted in the fall of 1990. I think it's still pretty much up to date. Changes from the last posting are in []'s. --David Wittenberg A few words about recumbent design, and then I'll provide a much larger list of recumbent manufacturers. There are three main choices in designing (or buying) a recumbent. Frame material -- all the ones I know of are either Alumninum or Steel. Wheelbase -- The front wheel can either be in front of the bottom bracket (long wheelbase) or behind it (short wheelbase). You can't have a medium wheelbase without a lot of extra work because the wheel and the bottom bracket would interfere with each other. Long wheelbase is reputed to be a bit more stable, while short wheelbase machines are often easier to fit into cars for transport. Some long wheelbase recumbents fold in neat ways to fit into a remarkably small space. Handlebars -- under seat or in front of the rider. Under seat is probably a more comfortable position when you get used to it (your hands just hang at your sides), and may be somewhat safer if you get thrown forward as there is nothing in front of you. High handlebars are somewhat faster as your arms are in front of you instead of at your side, thus reducing the frontal area. Some people find them more natural. [There are long wheelbase bikes with both high and low handlebars. I don't know of any short wheelbase, low handlebar recumbents, but there may be some I don't know of.] The following updated by Gary Walsh (gary.walsh@canrem.com) July 1992. There are a couple of interesting publications for recumbents: International Human Powered Vehicle Association P.O. Box 51255 Indianapolis, IN 46251 USA They publish Human Power Magazine and HPV News on all aspects of human powered transportation (bikes, aircraft, watercraft.) Dues are US$25/year in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, and US$30 elsewhere. The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America/Recumbent Cyclist Magazine PO Box 58755 Renton, WA 98058-1755. (206) 852-8149 The best source of information on commercially available recumbents. Read the reviews in this magazine before you buy your first recumbent. Subscriptions are US$25 in the U.S.A., and US$30/year elsewhere. Sample issue and info pack $5. See especially the buyers guide in issue #8 Oct-Dec 1992. Addresses of recumbent manufacturers: Ace Tool & Engineering (Infinity Recumbent) $1 for a flyer P.O Box 325 292 W. Harrison St. Mooresville, IN 46158 (317) 831-8798 Long wheelbase, low handlebars, aluminum frames. $499 + $85 for triple crank option. Information $1. Alternative Bikestyles P.O. Box 1344 Bonita, CA 91908 Phone (619)421-5118 Maverick $ Renegade LWB recumbents with upright handlebars. Framesets from $200. Complete bikes from $395. Advanced Transportation Products 550 3rd Ave. N. Edmonds, WA 98020 Phone (206)771-3719 R-20 SWB. $1350. Info pack $2. Angle Lake Cyclery 20840 Pacific Hwy S. Seattle WA 98198 Phone (206)878-7457 Counterpoint Presto SWB with upright handlebars. Presto SE Tour $1699. Presto SE High Performance $???. Presto CL $1399. Counterpoint Opus IV Tandem Opus CL $2999 Opus SE $3599 Tri Com Trikes $600-$700. Catalogue $2 Original Car-Cycle Technology 1311 Victoria Ave. Victoria, B.C., Canada V8S 4P4 Phone (604)598-7830 Fully fared commuter trike. Under development. DH Recumbents, Inc. 4007-G Bellaire Blvd. Houston, TX 77025 Phone (713)666-4452 LWB with upright steering. DH1000 $999, DH5000 $1395. Earth Traveller 1475 Lillian St. Livermore, CA 94550 Phone (415)449-8312 LWB trike with 2 wheels in back. Information $1. EcoCycle Earth Friendly Transportation 5755 NW Fair Oaks Dr. Corvallis, OR 97330 (503) 753-5178 The Trice is a recumbent tricycle, with two wheels in front. Touring $1495. Speed model $1595. Also imports Ross recumbent from England. $2 for flyer, $9 for video tape. Easy Racers, Inc Box 255H Freedom, CA 95019 (408) 722-9797 High handlebar, long wheelbase bikes. Easy Racer $2300. Frameset $1650. Gold Rush Replica, commercial version of the Dupont prize winning Gold Rush (world's fastest bike) also available. $2 for a catalog Lightning Cycle Dynamics 312 Ninth Street Lompoc, CA 93436 (805) 736-0700 P-38 Short Wheelbase, high handlebars. Full fairings are available, and very fast. $1750. F-40 fully fared version. Lightning Cycle Inc. (Tailwind) $1 for a brochure 3819 Rte. 295 Swanton, OH 43558 (419) 826-4056 Steel long wheelbase, underseat steering. Around $1200. Linear Manufacturing Inc. (Linear) Route 1, Box 173 Guttenberg, IA 52052 (319) 252-1637 Long Wheelbase aluminum bike with either high or low handlebars (You can convert from one to the other.) $900 to $1200. They sell through dealers, and if you get in touch with them they'll tell you where the nearest dealer is. Canadians see S.C. Safety Cycle below. Rans Recumbents 1104 E. Hwy. 40 Bypass Hays, KS 67601 (913) 625-6346 Rans Stratus A & B and Nimbus. LWB with upright handlebars. $995-$1495. ReBike P.O Box 725 Boca Raton, FL 33429 Phone (407)750-1304 The ReBike. A low priced semi-recumbent with upright steering. New and a big seller. $389. Rotator 915 Middle Rincon Rd. Santa Rosa, CA 95409 (707) 539-4203 Rotator Super-7 Streamliner - LWB with 20" wheels. Rotator Companion Tandem. Rhoades International 100 Rhoades Lane Hendersonville, TN 37075 Phone (615)822-2737 4-wheel pedal car. $999 and up. Information $4. Video $19. Ryan Recumbents, Inc. 1 Chestnut Street Nashua, NH 03060 (603) 598-1711 Vanguard. Long wheelbase, underseat steering. From $1295. S.C. Safety Cycle Inc. 1340B St. Paul St. Kelowna, B.C. Canada V1Y 2E1 Canadian distributor of the Linear which is sold as "The Alternative." CAN$1495. Special Purpose Vehicles 120 Prospect Street Somerville, MA 02143 (617) 625-9030 Thebis International 110-2031 Malaview Ave. Sidney, B.C. Canada V8L 3X9 Phone (604)656-1237 1-800-667-6801 Thebis 201 Touring Trike. Two wheels in back. $2990. Trailmate 2359 Trailmate Dr. Sarasota FL 34243 Phone (813)755-5511 Fun Cycle and Bannana Peel trikes. $399. Turner Enterprises P.O.Box 36158 Los Angeles, CA 90036 Phone (383)-0030 SWB with underseat steering. Laid Back "E" frame kit $375. LB-2000 $1500. Frameset $899. Zzip Designs P.O. Box 14 Davenport, CA 95017 Phone (408)425-8650 Manufacturer of fairings for many of the bikes listed above. Cyclopedia P.O. Box 884 Adrian, MI 49221 1-800-678-1021 Good source for parts for builders. ---------------- European Recumbents Leitra APS PO Box 64 DK-2750 Ballerup, Denmark Leitra M2 fully fared commuter trike. 3400 DM for the trike. 5845 DM for complete vehicle with accessories. Bas Ten Brinke Postbus 10075 1301 Almere, Netherlands Flevo SWB front wheel drive. Fateba, Bachman & Co. Rosenstr. 9, 8400 Winterthur Switzerland Fateba Winglet L1 LWB. Kincycle Miles Kingsbury Lane End Road, Sands, High Wycombe, Bucks HP12 4JQ England The Kingcycle SWB. M5 Bram Moens Waalstraat 41, NL-4335 KL Middleburg, Netherlands. M5 SWB. Neatwork The Lees Stables Coldstream, Berwickshire, Scotland TD12-4NN Dealer for Kingcycle SWB and Radius Peer Gynt LWB. Radius-Spezialrader, Frie-Vendt-Str 16, D-4400 Munster, Germany RFA Peer Gynt LWB with underseat steering. More Recumbent Bike Info (Gary Walsh gary.walsh@canrem.com) [This has been copied from a flyer written by Robert Bryant of the Recumbent Cyclist Magazine. He has given me permission to submit it for the FAQ. - Gary] Have You Ever Considered a RECUMBENT BICYCLE? WHY RECUMBENT BICYCLES? There are many reasons to consider a recumbent. First and foremost is comfort. When you ride a recumbent bicycle you will no longer have an aching back, stiff neck, numb wrists or a sore a sore bottom. You will sit in a relaxed easy-chair position. You will be able to ride longer with less fatigue and arrive at your destination feeling refreshed. The recumbent position offerd you a great view of the countryside. While seated you will look straight ahead. This allows your lungs and chest more open and free breathing. Recumbents are very versatile machines. They can be used for a wide range of applications: recreational/sport riding, for the daily commute, a fast double century and they are great for long distance touring. RECUMBENT PERFORMANCE Recumbents hold all of the human-powered speed records. This is because they are aerodynamically superior to conventional bicycles; less frontal area means less wind resistance. The Lightning F-40 currently holds the Race Across America speed record of five days and one hour. Gardner Martin's Easy Racer Gold Rush, ridden by Fast Freddie Markham, was the winner of the Dupont Prize for breaking 65mph. You can currently buy production versions of these bicycles. Fairings for street use are common and optional equipment on most commercially built models. They protect you from rain, cold and wind, with up to a 30% reduction in drag. Commercially available recumbents are not always faster than conventional bicycles. It depends mainly on the individual rider. Your best bet is to do you homework and if your goal is performance and speed, be sure that you look for a recumbent designed for this purpose. COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RECUMBENT BICYCLES 1) Do recumbents climb hills well? Yes they